Staying off the beaten track is always one of my favourite ways to travel. It’s here, away from the noise and chaos of India’s big cities, that you find quiet beauty, genuine hospitality, and a deeper understanding of local life.
On a recent journey through Rajasthan, I had the chance to stay at Chandelao Garh, a heritage homestay about 40 minutes from Jodhpur – yet it felt like stepping into a completely different world.
The drive from Jaipur took around five hours. We left the busy highway and turned down a dusty, bumpy road full of potholes, the heat shimmering across the barren desert landscape. As we approached the tiny village of Chandelao, it was clear life here was not easy. Limited water, unreliable electricity, and few opportunities make survival in rural Rajasthan a daily challenge.
But any sense of uncertainty disappeared the moment we arrived. Through the grand gates of the old Garh (fort), two brightly dressed men greeted us with wide smiles. Despite the searing 40+ degree heat, we were welcomed inside, draped with fragrant marigold garlands and handed cool lime drinks. The air-conditioned office was a small slice of heaven after the heat outside, and I was immediately struck by the warmth and eccentric charm of the owner, a well-educated man passionate about both his heritage and the future of his village.
Our rooms were in the old stables – spacious, simple, and fitted with just enough modern comfort (air conditioning being the most important!). After hours in the car, we were eager to stretch our legs, so with hats, cameras, and water bottles in hand, we set out to explore the village with a local guide.
One of the true highlights of my stay was Sundarang, a women’s cooperative established with the support of Chandelao Garh. In rural Rajasthan, women often have limited opportunities outside their homes, and Sundarang was created to change that – giving them a safe space to gather, work, and earn an income through traditional crafts.
Inside the workshop, women sat cross-legged on mats, their saris a burst of bright colours – deep magentas, turmeric yellows, emerald greens – as their hands moved skilfully with needle, thread, and block-printing tools. The room buzzed with quiet energy: laughter, gentle chatter, and the soft rustle of fabric being worked. Many of these women had never had the chance to study or work before, but here, they were not only earning but also rediscovering the pride of their heritage crafts.
The products themselves reflected Rajasthan’s rich artistry – hand-embroidered textiles, block-printed fabrics, beaded accessories, homewares, and seasonal decorations. Each piece was unique, carrying the small imperfections that only come with something handmade. What I loved most was knowing that every purchase directly supported the women behind the craft, helping them contribute to their household income, send their children to school, and build independence in a society where that isn’t always easy.
Just next to the workshop, a small shop showcased their creations. I couldn’t resist buying Christmas decorations, block-printed bags, and embroidered gifts for family back home. It was one of those rare moments when shopping didn’t just feel like consumption – it felt like connection. Supporting Sundarang wasn’t only about taking home something beautiful; it was about being part of a cycle that sustains tradition, empowers women, and gives back to the community.
For me, Sundarang captured the very essence of what I seek in travel: authentic encounters that leave both the traveller and the host community richer in spirit.
After this experience we continued on our walk. The village itself was hot, dusty, and alive with activity. We wandered past roaming dogs, wandering cows, and groups of children playing in the dirt. We were invited to sit in on a local festival, where we clapped and sang along, welcomed into a celebration that wasn’t ours but somehow felt shared. At the village lake, the community’s main water source, we were surprised to find an oasis of birdlife – rare species that make the area a hidden gem for birdwatchers. With the heat climbing toward 48 degrees, we eventually retreated to the Garh’s pool. The water was warm but still a joy, and there was something soothing about floating in the desert sun.
That evening, we set off on a jeep safari. Bumping along the dusty tracks, we spotted antelope grazing in the distance and paused to admire ancient trees that have stood as silent witnesses to centuries of desert life. As the sun began to set, we arrived at a rocky outcrop where deck chairs and – to my delight – icy gin and tonics were waiting. We sat back and watched the sky turn shades of orange and purple, while our host spoke passionately about everything from politics to sustainability in tourism. It was one of those pinch-me travel moments I’ll never forget.
Dinner was served poolside under the stars, shared with the owner’s son, daughter-in-law, and their two loyal dogs – a Labrador and a German Shepherd who quickly adopted us as friends. More gin and tonics, more conversation, and a delicious homecooked meal rounded out the night perfectly.
The next morning, the dogs were our first greeters, nudging us for attention before we set off on a sunrise walk. There is something deeply moving about watching a village wake up. Women were already hard at work – milking goats, making chapati, fetching water, and cleaning their homes before the heat became unbearable. It was a gentle rhythm, and one that felt both timeless and humbling. Our guide even took us to meet his family, giving us a rare glimpse into daily life behind closed doors.
Back at Chandelao Garh, we lingered over a hearty breakfast and fresh coffee, reluctant to leave this oasis of connection and calm.
If you’re seeking a place that offers more than just a stay – a genuine chance to connect with rural Rajasthan, to support local women, and to step into a slower, more meaningful rhythm of life – then Chandelao Garh is a destination to add to your journey.